Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/jio-hjrblglBZAPlenary session. Protectionism or Free Trade. Should National Clothing Markets Be Protected?Grand Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/5nj0hx5VKSUXMg One of the key topics discussed at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit in Moscow was the balance between global market openness and the need to protect national brands. During the plenary session, "Protectionism or Free Trade: Should National Clothing Markets Be Protected?", speakers noted that Global South nations are increasingly adopting protectionist policies to shield their vital textile industries. Examples include China's use of subsidies to support its domestic market and Brazil's high tariffs to counter external pressures. Other nations employ protectionist measures to boost exports, support emerging industries, and increase government revenue.
For Russia, 2022 marked a pivotal turning point across various sectors, including fashion.
“Back then, the industry faced numerous challenges that needed immediate solutions. Our primary focus was to promote local brands among Russian consumers. First and foremost, the consumer must be local,” explained
Alexei Fursin, Moscow Government Minister and Head of the Department of Culture. He noted that this focus has yielded significant growth in domestic brands showcased at Moscow Fashion Week. “I am grateful to the international delegation participating today. We see that not only designers but also buyers come to Moscow for fashion events, and this trend is becoming quite stable,” he added.
Addressing the potential return of Western brands that exited the market,
Kirill Dmitriev, Special Presidential Representative for Investment and Economic Cooperation, affirmed that Russia will not hinder their return but prioritizes its own businesses.
“Of course, we need to consider who left and under what circumstances. I believe the Russian government will make a balanced decision. Complete protectionism would hinder competition. A thoughtful approach will be taken to determine the conditions under which they can return,” he said.
Ten years ago, this rapid growth in the creative industry was unimaginable. Previously, there were only a few successful examples of designers drawing on unique cultural codes, museum collections, or traditional patterns. Today, the situation has changed dramatically. Olga Lyubimova, Minister of Culture of the Russian Federation shared her thoughts: ”Now, we are delighted by the countless talented, young, and forward-looking designers inspired by our classical heritage. Our major national museums are a regular source of inspiration — for colors, motifs, and designs. This has become incredibly popular and in demand not only among creators but also among consumers.”
Providing an international perspective,
Aurea Yamashita, Director of International Trade Promotion of
ABEST from Brazil, highlighted the challenges local brands face abroad.
“It’s a big problem for us because entering the international market is very costly. The expenses include taxes and customs duties imposed by our country. We often discuss in Brazil that reducing tariffs would help our companies access new markets and become more competitive. Our designers work with many handcrafted techniques, producing unique items. Recently, we have been selling more abroad, but we could do even better if tariffs were lower,” she explained.
The plenary session featured speakers including
Olga Lyubimova, Minister of Culture of the Russian Federation;
Kirill Dmitriev, Special Presidential Representative for Investment and Economic Cooperation (
Russia);
Alexei Fursin, Moscow Government Minister and Head of the Department of Culture (
Russia);
Aizel Trudel, Trustee of the Fashion Fund; and
Aurea Yamashita, Director of International Trade Promotion of Abest (Brazil). The session was moderated by
Aleksandra Suvorova, Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Russia-24 channel.
Creative Originality vs. AI. What Is Important for the Consumer?Grand Hall
Фото: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/9dmfygCO4FnolwDuring the discussion focused on artificial intelligence's role in the fashion industry, experts underscored that AI is emerging not as a competitor to creative professionals, but as a powerful collaborative tool. Participants discussed how modern technologies help designers streamline their workflow and generate innovative ideas while preserving the uniqueness and individuality of artistic vision.
Maria Shevchenko, Creative Director of 3dcouture, observed that while algorithms can generate countless design variations, they are unable to fully capture the emotional depth and cultural values that each designer brings to their work. "AI helps bring imagination to life but does not replace the human element," she emphasized, illustrating her point with an example of creating an original print through neural networks.
Viacheslav Vasilev, Head of the Data Analysis Department at Sber AI, highlighted that the critical challenge lies in the approach to data collection and analysis to prevent a homogenized, averaged aesthetic. He noted that while artificial intelligence excels at executing well-defined tasks, it cannot replicate the human experience that drives authentic creativity.
Akashdeep Singh, President of the Indian Business Council, emphasized the concept of "collaboration between Art and AI"–a partnership where technology accelerates and enhances the creative process, while crucial decisions remain firmly in human hands.
In conclusion of the session, experts reached consensus that fashion's future rests in synthesis: creative originality need not oppose artificial intelligence but can evolve alongside it. AI serves as an instrument that liberates time for creativity, enabling designers to develop unique, personalized, and technologically sophisticated products that resonate with today's consumers.
The discussion featured
Maria Shevchenko, Creative Director of 3dcouture (
Russia);
Karina Díaz Vargas, President and CEO of Costa Rica Fashion Week Forever Green;
Emmanuel Muchindu Miyoba, Director of Lusaka Fashion Weekend (Zambia);
Akashdeep Singh, President of the Indian Business Council;
Vadim Korolev, Principal Investigator at MSU Institute for Artificial Intelligence (
Russia); and
Viacheslav Vasilev, Head of the Data Analysis Department at Sber AI (
Russia). The session was moderated by
Evgenii Boltachev, Creative Producer at "Sholotch"(
Russia).
Market Privileges. How to Attract Investors to the Fashion IndustryGrand Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/pRN2vpas964MoAIn the session on the fashion industry's investment potential, Russian and international experts from Ecuador, Spain, and Ethiopia examined key market dynamics and funding opportunities.
Olga Migacheva, Founder of BI Agency and session moderator, emphasized that despite fashion's creative nature, success hinges on stable business models and financial performance. Participants highlighted the industry's inherent challenges: high volatility, seasonal fluctuations, and extended capital turnover cycles, making investment support essential.
"Today, the fashion market is aimed at entrepreneurs: rising expenses, reducing costs on unnecessary goods, and promoting initial online marketing create challenges for niche brands. At the same time, the presence of long-term constraints opens opportunities for scaling and developing companies," emphasized
Maksim Penkin, Managing Partner of the Signal Fund.
Kirill Chizhov, Co-founder of Copplife, discussed clothing innovations ranging from nanoparticle-enhanced fabrics to materials that promote health and comfort. He argued that technological advancement and eco-friendly approaches significantly boost brands' investment appeal
."Investors focus on validated concepts, sustainable business models, and capable development teams. We're seeing increased interest in retail segments, the rehabilitation industry, and functional textiles," noted
Yana Komarova, CEO of Zerno Ventures.Aleksei Kostrov, Investment Managing Director at the Moscow Venture Fund, said that his organization actively supports fashion startups through funding and growth acceleration programs
.Participants agreed that balancing creativity with robust business fundamentals while leveraging platforms like Fashion Weeks help brands attract investors. The session revealed growing investment activity in both Russian and international fashion markets, with particular focus on collaboration between creative entrepreneurs, restrictions, and government institutions driving sector growth.
The discussion included representatives from government entities, high-tech companies, venture funds, and international fashion platforms:
Tsgehiwot Haftu Geretsadik, Garment Desk Head at the Ethiopian Ministry of Industry
(Ethiopia);
Pietro Polit, Director of Quito Fashion Week (
Ecuador);
Kirill Chizhov, Co-founder of Copplife;
Iana Komarova, CEO of Zerno Ventures (
Russia);
Sergio Puig, Director of Mediterranea Fashion Week Valencia (
Spain);
Maksim Penkin, Managing Partner of the Signal Fund (
Russia);
Aleksei Kostrov, Managing Director of Investments at the Moscow Venture Fund (
Russia); and
Ruslan Babintsev, Managing Director of Motorika (
Russia). The session was moderated by
Olga Migacheva, Founder of BI Agency (
Russia).
Land Code. Crafts, Heritage, and Local PracticesGrand Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/3-gsmklUFmhC-ABRICS countries possess deep cultural histories and have cultivated traditional crafts across centuries. In today's globalized world, fashion has emerged as one of the most effective vehicles for preserving these heritage practices, as contemporary designers increasingly weave cultural codes and artisanal techniques into modern creations. Discussion participants examined how to maintain respect for cultural authenticity while sharing experiences of preserving and adapting folk traditions for contemporary audiences. Experts agreed that heritage serves designers not merely as inspiration but as a distinctive competitive advantage.
"Traditional crafts form the foundation of Moroccan society. Today, our cultural code has become a recognized global brand, transcending mere exoticism. This recognition creates opportunities for dialogue with countries close to us. I've always been fascinated by our centuries-old heritage, enriched over time by Arab, Asian, and European influences. However, we face a crucial challenge—how to use these traditions responsibly. Cultural codes are now easily appropriated. Many were outraged when famous couturiers made traditional Moroccan slippers called babouches and sold them for two thousand euros. Economic opportunity is vital, but it must respect ancestral traditions and operate fairly. Learning to protect the folk crafts of Tajikistan, Morocco, Kyrgyzstan, and other BRICS countries through intellectual property frameworks represents our generation's defining challenge," shared
Hind Joudar, Founder and CEO of Morocco Fashion Week (Morocco)."Nicaragua, like Russia, is a multinational country with a rich history – every nation maintains a distinct cultural identity, which we support and preserve through design, fashion, and art with government assistance. We develop local designer communities and encourage them to incorporate traditional embroidery and techniques. Our goal is creating folk-inspired designs that allow people to take pride in their country and cultural code while promoting it internationally. Our designers offer clients eco-friendly, unique clothing featuring interpretations of ancestral symbols, including animal imagery. Every pattern carries its own narrative," shared
Camila Ortega Murillo, General Director of Nicaragua Diseña and Nicaragua Creative Economy Commission (Nicaragua)."The cultural codes our ancestors preserved and transmitted across millennia hold immense significance. Folk arts represent humanity's oldest creative expressions, and folk crafts constitute a unique form of applied art. In Russia, they provide the foundation for all other arts. Over a hundred nations inhabit our country, each with distinct root cultures and ornamental styles connected to festive traditions, labor practices, holidays, beliefs, and ancient rituals. Preserving this cultural diversity prompted the Russian government to establish protective measures. These crafts exist only within specific settlement boundaries. For instance, Gzhel ceramics can only be produced in the village bearing that name—any other production cannot claim the Gzhel designation. This approach is correct because the birthplace of tradition is sacred," stated
Vyacheslav Dolgov, Chairman of the Board of the National Union of Folk Art Crafts.
The discussion also featured:
Nurzat Zheenbek, President of the Crafts Council of Kyrgyzstan (
Kyrgyzstan);
Tokhir Ibragimov, CEO of Tajikistan Fashion Week (
Tajikistan);
Hind Joudar, Founder and CEO of Morocco Fashion Week (
Morocco);
Camila Ortega Murillo, General Director of Nicaragua Diseña, Chief Coordinator of the Nicaragua Creative Economy Commission (
Nicaragua);
Vyacheslav Dolgov, Chairman of the Board of the National Union of Folk Art Crafts (
Russia). The moderator of the discussion was
Gulnara Agamova, CEO of Creative Industries Agency.
From Gloss to Mass Market. How Styling Helps SellGrand Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/w-GzfLEO0vi5uAIn today's market, a stylist's professional expertise determines far more than visual appeal and brand reputation—it directly impacts profitability, recognition, sales, and marketplace conversion rates. How can brands and private clients identify and select "their ideal stylist"? Can AI compete with styling specialists? What does the future hold for this profession? These and other questions formed the foundation of the public talk.
"Stylists fall into three distinct categories. First, editorial stylists create compelling imagery that aligns with magazine aesthetics and seasonal trends. Success here requires deep understanding of each brand's DNA. Second, commercial stylists must craft accessible images that drive sales. Their work should be straightforward, well-presented, and commercially viable while maintaining strong styling standards. This approach must influence purchasing decisions and deliver measurable results. Third, personal stylists function almost as therapists – they need psychological insight, emotional sensitivity, and the ability to identify individual style for sustained success and demand. Unfortunately, many unqualified practitioners have entered the field. How do you identify genuine talent? Examine their complete portfolio and review their performance metrics for both corporate and individual clients," explained
Liliya Rakh, Fashion Buyer, TV host and Sauvage Group representative.
"I seldom agree to be a personal stylist for private clients. You must genuinely connect with and care deeply for the person. It's an intensive, delicate psychological process requiring a month or longer. Corporate work demands different approaches, though loving and respecting the brand's heritage remains essential. Established companies already possess defined DNA and clientele, so stylists work toward sales objectives. Therefore, any suggested changes must be introduced thoughtfully. Smaller brands offer lower compensation but greater creative freedom, making collaboration more engaging. In these cases, you help create entirely new brand DNA," shared
Lada Arzumanova, Stylist.
"I once worked with a client seeking image concepts for AI-generated visual series. The neural networks we employed couldn't achieve 100% accuracy. However, this project highlighted professional stylists' unique advantages–unlike AI, we understand industry terminology and can distinguish between technical details like backstage areas and garment construction elements. Additionally, having taught students for nearly a decade, I consistently emphasize engagement, empathy, and human value. Stylists must appreciate clients as individuals, not merely revenue sources. This genuine human connection can never be replicated by machines," noted
Tatyana Nikeitseva,
Founder of the Personal Styling School.The public talk featured:
Lada Arzumanova, Stylist (
Russia);
Rene Barrera, Producer of El Salvador Fashion Week (
El Salvador);
Liliya Rakh, Fashion Buyer, TV host and Sauvage Group representative;
Tatyana Nikeitseva, Founder of the Personal Styling School (
Russia). The discussion was moderated by
Aleksey Suharev, Blogger of Fashion Podcast (
Russia).
Power of Local. How Regional Brands Stimulate Consumer Demand for Local ProductsGrand Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/k48JjgLI8q9VlwIn the era of globalization and imported goods availability, cultivating consumer patriotism has become increasingly important. This session examined regional programs' role in building loyalty toward domestic products and supporting local manufacturers, conducted with backing from "Made in Moscow."
Stylist
Lina Dembikova, Founder of Selection and Ava, highlighted the dramatic transformation in Russian brand perception over recent years: "Fifteen years ago, calling someone a "Russian designer" sounded a bit ironic. Today, we witness established local brands creating exceptional products rooted in cultural codes and artisanal traditions. Having our own brands is no longer just a necessity; it’s something to be proud of."
Vitaly Stepanov, CEO of Moscow Export Center, outlined designer support initiatives: "Over 7,500 companies are currently featured on the 'Made in Moscow' website, and during recent years, more than 180 companies have participated in international exhibitions through the 'Made in Moscow' project. Our primary challenge remains consistent–a shortage of skilled personnel and entrepreneurial expertise."
"Regional brands are emerging as catalysts for domestic consumption. For these companies, success encompasses more than economics–it represents territorial identity. By supporting local producers, we reinforce consumer confidence and establish sustainable demand for domestic goods," explained
Olga Terno, Advisor to the Deputy Minister of the Ministry of Economic Development of Russia.Tatyana Maksimova, Editor-in-Chief of Voice Shopping, observed a significant cultural shift: "Where designers previously avoided Russian names, today increasing numbers of brands proudly incorporate Cyrillic lettering. This represents a notable trend, with mass media playing a crucial role in amplifying these compelling narratives."
The discussion revealed that Russian fashion has successfully transcended its initial unification phase with global markets and now advances confidently along an independent trajectory, leveraging cultural codes, traditional craftsmanship of various peoples, and comprehensive government support. The industry's future hinges directly on personnel development and entrepreneurial skill enhancement.
The speakers of the session included:
Anfisa Ibadova, Founder of Anfi (
Russia);
Elvira Yankovskaya, Stylist (
Russia);
Vitaly Stepanov, CEO of Moscow Export Center (
Russia);
Lina Dembikova, Founder of Selection/Ava (
Russia);
Olga Terno, Advisor to the Deputy Minister of the Ministry of Economic Development (
Russia);
Tatyana Maksimova, Editor-in-Chief of Voice Shopping (
Russia). The moderator was
Mikhail Khomich, Chief Strategist at Veb.rf, Deputy Director of the New Business department at Agency for Strategic Initiatives for the Promotion of New Projects (ASI), Associate Professor of the Faculty of Economics of Moscow State University, Member of the Supervisory Board of the Association of Digital Platforms of Russia.
Warm Winters Mean Cold Sales. How Climate Is Breaking the Fashion IndustryGrand Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/mAABLLtEBSYI3wThe fashion industry increasingly confronts the realities of global warming and climate change. January 2025 marked Russia's warmest in 245 years, while summer brought record rainfall levels. Many brands now face consumers reluctant to purchase seasonal clothing, forcing retailers to manage substantial surplus inventory. How can production and marketing strategies adapt to these unprecedented weather patterns? Will future fashion pivot toward versatile, multi-functional garments? Discussion participants agreed that while rainy and cold seasons will persist in Russia for decades, brands must prioritize flexibility, strategic product redistribution, and dynamic marketing that drives impulse and trend-conscious purchases.
"We're witnessing a rise in global temperatures. In temperate zones, temperatures are rising 2 to 2.5 times. Beyond the polar circle, the rate is even more dramatic. In Moscow, January temperatures have increased by three degrees, July by one and a half. Within 10-20 years, Moscow's climate could resemble that of Voronezh or Tambov. Consequently, between-season clothing will experience higher demand. Certainly, regions with reliable winters will persist, particularly beyond the Ural Mountains. However, the European part of Russia lacks such certainty. I'm troubled by the word 'breaks' in our discussion title—I would argue that climate doesn't 'break' the fashion industry but 'modifies' it, and this transformation will intensify. Product ranges will evolve—these aren't instantaneous changes, but they will definitively occur over coming decades," explained
Aleksandr Shuvalov, Head of Meteo forecasting center."Completely eliminating winter clothing remains impossible for two critical reasons. First, our consumption culture involves winter preparation. We cannot disappoint customers or compromise loyalty by removing that choice. Second, profitability is paramount—outerwear generates primary revenue. Eliminating it would create substantial financial losses. Rather than cutting winter collections, we're transforming them and developing sophisticated marketing strategies: incorporating versatile jackets, lightweight eco-faux fur, and offering products addressing current emotional and physical needs. We base procurement on sales data and forecasts established well before seasons begin. Through analyzing sales patterns and projections, we purchase multiple segments—core products sellable for six to nine months—and acquire winter items in volumes enabling planned revenue achievement without excess inventory," detailed
Petr Fedin, Head of Procurement Analytics at Mercury."Marketing can facilitate brand adaptation to changing climate conditions. Certain products like trench coats maintain limited seasonal relevance, but strategic marketing can convince customers of their necessity. Extending product lifespans to accommodate various weather fluctuations is equally important. Most brands utilize ready-made fabrics but few understand material physics—a significant missed opportunity. For instance, during winter, transitional coats outsold down jackets. Brands like Loro Piana, utilizing membrane fabrics in their coats, gained competitive advantages. Such coats provide comfort down to minus ten degrees," noted
Ekaterina Dyagileva, Founder of Russian Season."To assess climate change's impact on winter clothing demand, we segmented markets by price: mass-market and mid/mid-upper tiers. Our research indicates mass-market performance remains strong and stable with 3-4% growth. The mid-upper segment maintains financial stability but shows approximately 8% sales decline compared to the 2023-2024 season. Our conclusion: fewer consumers visited stores for outerwear purchases this season. However, it's premature to identify this as a long-term climate-related trend. We're experiencing uncertainty, and during such periods, people typically extend clothing usage across multiple seasons," analyzed
Valeriya Erguneva, Head of Quantitative Research at SberAnalytics.
Session speakers were:
Ekaterina Dyagileva, Founder of Russian Season (
Russia);
Aleksandr Shuvalov, Head of Meteo forecasting center (
Russia);
Yelena Pismenskaya, CEO of Fashion Force (
Russia);
Inna Onor, Founder of Flashin (
Russia);
Petr Fedin, Head of Procurement Analytics at Mercury (
Russia); and
Valeriya Erguneva, Head of Quantitative Research at SberAnalytics (
Russia). The discussion was moderated by Daniia Tkachyova, Owner of the Dynasty.
Power of Positioning. Brand Evolution — From Logo to CultureChamber Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/1XE0di5bVuASpAIn an era of oversaturated markets and digital noise, brand success extends far beyond logo recognition to encompass the depth of cultural influence. How is positioning strategy evolving—from visual symbols toward creating values, communities, and entirely new behavioral codes?
What genuine crises confront companies today, and how do consumers respond in markets where quality and values have become ubiquitous talking points?
Yuliya Tipenkova, CEO of Lyna Plus, observed: "Today, a brand represents the community customers aspire to join and where they feel genuinely comfortable. We must all decelerate to comprehend our brand's essence and how it communicates with consumers–only then can we truly understand our customer identity."
"The BRICS+ Fashion Summit represents the largest congregation of fashion industry professionals. I believe the emotions generated here enable us to create culture itself. The summit's positioning demonstrates it stands as the world's premier fashion event," stated
Mustafa Hassanali,
Chairperson of Swahili Fashion Week and the Fashion Association of Tanzania.
The discussion featured:
Aleksei Parfun, CEO of AI Influence (
Russia);
Kalistu Ramos Mukoroli, Director of MTC Windhoek Fashion Week (
Namibia);
Mustafa Hassanali, Chair of Swahili Fashion Week and the Fashion Association of Tanzania (
Tanzania);
Yuliya Tipenkova, CEO of Lyna Plus; and
Anna Getaneh, Founder and Creative Director of African Mosaique (
Ethiopia). The session was moderated by
Gregg Maragelis, Director of Cape Town College of Fashion Design (
South Africa).
Closed-Loop Fashion. How to Sew, Wear, and RegenerateChamber Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/Jro4sOIJ71ypnwThe relentless pursuit of trends drives consumers to constantly acquire new clothing while discarding items that have lost their novelty appeal. According to Harmony, 50 million tons of clothing reach landfills annually, with merely 15% being recycled or donated to second-hand retailers. The fashion industry’s current waste levels are unsustainable. Circular production models, recycling and upcycling technologies, eco-friendly material utilization, and proper garment care have transcended trends–they represent absolute necessities. Discussion participants were individuals who champion this fundamental shift.
Patrick Duffy, founder of Global Fashion Exchange (USA), actively promotes clothing swap parties, orchestrating them globally from New York to Nairobi. His first event took place in Copenhagen during the 2010s. At that time, eco-consciousness was an emerging trend, and when he discovered a waterfront tent marked "Fashion Exchange"–where Danish citizens exchanged clothing–he thought, "This is the future." He began contemplating how to not only implement this concept but transform it into a revenue stream. He recognized the necessity of engaging major corporations in closed-loop systems. "Initially, they couldn't grasp my vision," Patrick recalled, "but I convinced them they could increase profitability. We piloted the program with H&M, and the model succeeded. Numerous other brands subsequently expressed interest."
"We have a 'green shelf' section featuring products containing at least 50% recycled materials. Beyond highlighting these items on our marketplace, we actively encourage customers to bring unwanted clothing. We collaborate with the 'Second Breath' foundation and have initiated partnerships with recyclers. Our primary weakness remains Russia's underdeveloped recycling infrastructure," explained
Yana Trofimova, Head of the Department for Sustainable Development at Lamoda.Nikolai Ovechkin, stylist, TV host, and lecturer, in his lectures tells audiences how to construct wardrobes from minimal quantities of well-cherished, pre-owned garments. "The era has ended," he states, "when someone purchasing an apartment would first design an enormous walk-in closet. That paradigm no longer exists—clothing doesn't require such extensive space." During the discussion, he encouraged attendees to grant old clothing second opportunities.
Patrick Duffy responded first, taking the microphone to share that his current sweater belonged to his grandmother. Though decades old, it remains warm and comfortable.
Speakers included:
Patrick Duffy, Founder of Global Fashion Exchange (
USA);
Marina Demchenko, Editor-in-Chief of youth magazine "We" (
Russia);
Namrata Zakaria, Founder of Rolla Media
(India);
Brian Kihindas, Creative Director of Nairobi Fashion Week (
Kenya);
Lyubov Popova, Creative Director of fashion house Lubovi (
Russia);
Yelizaveta Purtova, Head of Sewing Production at Rishi (
Russia); and
Yana Trofimova, Head of Department for Sustainable Development at Lamoda (
Russia). The session was moderated by
Irina Leonova, General Manager of Bioteks (
Russia).
Anchor Tenants. Russian Retail Networks and BRICS Market LeadersChamber Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/61FPUe0NUf1y7QThe evolving geography of fashion retail emerges at the convergence of local market dynamics and international strategic expansion. Russian brands are capturing emerging market niches and establishing themselves as formidable anchor players. Retailers are advancing to unprecedented levels, launching collaborative initiatives, and exploring innovative cross-border formats. The central question driving the discussion: How can retailers transform into fashionable "anchors"?
Natalya Mironova, Head of Business Programs at PROfashion media holding, identified several key trends reshaping today's Russian market. The predominant trend centers on Russian consumer loyalty toward domestic brands. The "Wear Russian" movement gains substantial momentum, with domestic products purchased five times more frequently than foreign alternatives. Russian brands have initiated ambitious international expansion, with the Middle East serving as a strategic focal point–currently showcasing brands including Brusnika, 12 Storeez, and others. Another significant development involves collaborative partnerships, with brands increasingly aligning with Russian cultural institutions and museums.
Larisa Grigorieva, a Fashion Law Expert, underscored the critical importance of legal protection: "When establishing your brand, trademark protection must be the foundational step. Upon entering international markets, consideration must extend beyond national legal frameworks to encompass cultural nuances, as these elements fundamentally determine advertising campaign success or failure.
Mihajlo Matković, Managing Partner at Mpartners.legal (Serbia), outlined essential steps for international market entry: comprehensive intellectual property protection, immigration law comprehension, and establishing strategic relationships with customs authorities. For luxury brands, he noted, it’s important who is working at the production facilities. Consumers should feel that they are supporting local manufacturing.
The discussion featured:
Larisa Grigorieva, Fashion Law Expert
(Russia);
François Schweitzer, General Merchandising Manager at Etoile Group (
UAE);
Nikolai Konstantinov, CEO of Trend Island (
Russia);
Natalya Mironova, Head of Business Programs at PROfashion Media Holding (
Russia);
Snezhana Kokoreva, Production Director at 2MOOD (
Russia);
Mihajlo Matković, Managing Partner at Mpartners.legal
(Serbia); and
Oleg Klimov, President of the Russian Council of Shopping Centers (
Russia). The session was moderated by
Tatiana Belkevich, President of RAFI.
National Style in Jewelry Art. From Origins to Modern InterpretationsChamber Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/YXwF25hfErrpgAThe Russian jewelry industry is experiencing a profound period of reinvention: preserving traditional craftsmanship techniques while embracing bold contemporary interpretations–these themes are actively discussed, contemplated, and transformed into innovative collections. This public discourse became a vital platform where industry experts convened to explore what constitutes the national code in jewelry artistry, examining its historical formation, contemporary Russian brand interpretations, and international market reception. The prevailing consensus: Russia's cultural code undoubtedly serves as an inexhaustible source of inspiration and creative strength.
Petr Aksenov, jeweler, founder of jewelry house Russkaya Skazka, gained recognition for meticulously recreating the wedding tiara of Princess Irina Yusupova, Nicholas II's niece, originally lost in 1925. The tiara was initially crafted by Cartier. Petr confidently predicts that Russians will increasingly gravitate toward their national heritage in coming years, driven by numerous factors–chief among them being Russian culture's extraordinary richness and depth.
Olga Mikhailovskaya, founder of Front, observed that national motifs cyclically resurface in fashion. They flourished during the 1970s, then again in the 1990s when international corporations dominated fashion, creating globalized aesthetics while romantic national elements persisted. Throughout the 2010s, renewed interest in cultural roots and national identity became a worldwide phenomenon—essentially a reaction against homogenizing globalization forces.
Sofya Shvyrkova, founder of Secrets, discussed her transformative project that granted Rostov finift (traditional Russian enamel technique) fundamentally innovative design approaches, breathing contemporary relevance into ancient artisanal methods
.Dmitrii Kuznetsov, founder of Mozi J Gold, shared insights from his extensive experience working with Russian and Soviet symbolic elements.
The speakers reached consensus that while cultural code interpretation varies among individuals, preserving unique techniques inherited from previous generations remains today's paramount responsibility. This preservation will likely manifest through contemporary design philosophies and innovative solutions that revitalize and modernize the cultural code for future generations.
Speakers:
Sofya Shvirkova, Founder of Secrets;
Dmitrii Kuznetsov, Creator of Mozi J Gold;
Olga Mikhailovskaya, Founder of Front;
Petr Aksenov, jeweler and founder of Russkaya Skazka. Moderator:
Kristina Konstantinu, Senior Fashion Editor at Peopletalk.
From Offline to Online and Back. What Sales Formats Are Leading TodayOpen hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/B9JNt9CRj-JTFAThe digital transformation of the retail industry has accelerated dramatically in recent years, yet rather than witnessing a complete migration online, the fashion market reveals an emerging paradigm–hybrid sales models where physical and digital experiences create synergistic customer journeys. During this expert discussion, industry leaders explored which customer interaction formats prove most effective in 2025, how brands are fundamentally reimagining offline store functions, and which technologies successfully eliminate barriers between sales channels.
What compels brands to establish physical stores when the majority of contemporary purchases occur online?
Marina Polkovnikova, CEO of VMC Retail, emphasizes that courage remains essential–particularly for emerging brands venturing into brick-and-mortar retail. The second, more pragmatic driver involves funding. In store development, she identifies several indispensable retail trends defining today's landscape. First, art installations strategically positioned at store entrances specifically designed for customer photography and social sharing. Second, concept stores engineered to create memorable customer impressions that transcend traditional shopping experiences. Third, interactive technological solutions that proliferate daily, transforming passive browsing into engaging, immersive encounters. Fourth, elevated customer service–rapidly emerging as retail's "new currency," where human connection becomes a competitive differentiator.
Artem Yaskov, Chief Operations Officer at Cozy Home, advocates for embracing rather than resisting marketplace trends. If customers find it convenient to collect items nearby without engaging in comprehensive in-store experiences, why challenge their preferences? He emphasizes a crucial strategic insight: physical stores, marketplaces, and e-commerce platforms should maintain differentiated assortments.
Speakers:
Artem Yaskov, Operations Director at Cozy Home (
Russia);
Ryan Drewe Taylor, Creative Director of Drewe Taylor Designs, Phnom Penh Designers Week (
Cambodia);
Marina Polkovnikova, CEO of VMC Retail (
Russia);
Marie-Josée Natabou Ahounou, Founder of Benin Fashion Week (
Benin);
Yuliia Vakhovskaia, Head of the Offline Department at Poison Drop (
Russia);
Mihajlo Matković, Managing Partner at Mpartners.legal (
Serbia). Moderator:
Lina Dembikova, Founder of Selection/AVA (
Russia).
Future of Collaboration. Why Corporations Are Looking for Independent CreatorsOpen Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/-j8xVq9HxXj9NwIn an era where consumers increasingly demand authenticity, major fashion houses are discovering that traditional corporate glamour no longer captivates audiences. According to Lyst, 68% of Generation Z representatives value collaborations with independent designers more highly than mainstream collections. This shift has catalyzed a paradoxical trend: luxury brands are deliberately seeking “talent in the roug” as part of a strategic "controlled enthusiasm" approach–corporations gain access to emerging subcultures and digital communities while maintaining interpretive control over their aesthetics.
Galina Kravchenko-Manyukova, founder and CEO of K&PA, established the discussion framework by referencing the remarkable "Selsovet" case study–a company that propelled a niche brand onto the international stage. The brand's USSR logo sweaters, purchased by Russia's Ministry of Foreign Affairs, unexpectedly catapulted "Selsovet" to global recognition.
Mubashar Naseer Butt, Chairman and CEO of Body Media International Pvt Ltd (Pakistan), extended an invitation for Russian designers to explore collaborative opportunities in Pakistan where there is everything needed to bring designs to life—from craft practices to modern technologies.
Speakers:
Mubashar Naseer Butt, Chairman and CEO of Body Media International Pvt Ltd (
Pakistan);
Bediz Yıldırım, Lecturer at Istanbul Fashion Academy (
Turkey);
Natalya Koryako, CEO of 7.2.66 | moremerch (
Russia);
Mmantlha Sankoloba, CEO of Botswana Exporters and Manufacturers Association (
Botswana);
Ümit Temurcin, Founder and Creative Director of UT Projects & PR (
Turkey).
Moderator:
Galina Kravchenko-Manyukova, Founder and CEO of K&PA (
Russia).
Interactive Showcase. How Niche Brands Can Take Center Stage on Russian and International MarketplacesOpen Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/a_tL5OaeU4x5lwThis session explored contemporary fashion market trends and strategic approaches for elevating local brand visibility. Creating compelling brand narratives, masterful presentation techniques, and expert mentorship have emerged as key success factors for growth and recognition within today's fashion landscape.
"Many industry participants have observed a striking paradox: consumers are increasingly fatigued by mass-market offerings and actively seek distinctive products with authentic character. However, beneath this consumer shift lies a fundamental challenge in today's competitive environment," observed
Sergei Krasnov,
RBC TV presenter, opening the session. The expert panel subsequently analyzed prevailing consumer behavior patterns.
Session Speakers:
Malika Dzhuraeva, Editor-in-chief and manager at WOSK1147 (
Russia);
Ivetta Makarova, CEO and Founder of WOSK 1147 (
Russia);
Elen Manukyan, Co-founder and Team Leader of Fashion Chamber of Armenia (
Armenia);
Iloanga Yershova, Business Development Director at Internet Solutions (
Russia);
Irina Maksimova, Director of Fashion Purchasing and Development at Lamoda (
Russia). Moderator:
Sergei Krasnov, TV presenter at RBC TV (
Russia).
#Country Session. South AfricaOpen Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/zhRxIob505fgSAUnique cultural heritage, accelerated development, and sophisticated design sensibilities – this powerful convergence has positioned South Africa as one of Africa's most compelling fashion markets in recent years. During this comprehensive session, South African industry leaders discussed the nation's fashion evolution, innovative educational methodologies, and emerging opportunities for international brand partnerships.
"What distinguishes South African fashion from global trends? Our designs are deeply rooted in the history and cultural tapestry of our nation. It is precisely this authentic tradition that empowers our designers to create truly distinctive pieces," explained
Stephen Manzini, CEO of Soweto Fashion Week (South Africa).
"South Africa's fashion industry has undergone remarkable transformation. Since colonial times, we have evolved dramatically, with fashion emerging as a vital economic sector. Recently, South Africa's global positioning has been reconsidered — the world now recognizes us as a nation offering unprecedented opportunities. Major international brands increasingly outsource production to South Africa. We have worked tirelessly to demonstrate our capabilities to the global market, and many of our brands have earned prestigious international recognition. We are strategically building South Africa as a raw material production hub serving both our continent and European markets, establishing ourselves as a genuine economic catalyst," said
David Tlale, Creative Director of David Tlale (South Africa).
"Today's bold emerging designers no longer feel compelled to emulate international traditions–they don't need to copy others. Instead, they draw profound inspiration from South Africa's rich folk heritage. We grew up immersed in traditional crafts that define our cultural identity. Simultaneously, we highly value international student exchange programs and are revolutionizing our teaching methodologies. I firmly believe that professional success requires expanding beyond one's continent—attending international fashion weeks, engaging with global communities, and integrating acquired knowledge into creative practice,"said
Gregg Maragelis, Director of Cape Town College of Fashion Design (South Africa).Session Participants:
Stephen Manzini, CEO of Soweto Fashion Week (
South Africa);
Tinyiko Baloyi, Lecturer at the University of Johannesburg (
South Africa);
David Tlale, Creative Director of David Tlale (
South Africa);
Vusi Ngobeni, Deputy Director of Design at the Department of Sport, Arts and Culture of South Africa (
South Africa);
Gregg Maragelis, Director of Cape Town College of Fashion Design (
South Africa). Moderator:
Molife Kumona, Editor-in-Chief of GQ South Africa.
Cultural Diplomacy. How Fashion Is Changing the Global AgendaOpen Hall
Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/NHWiTUAAX-4UvQIn an era of profound global transformation, fashion transcends mere aesthetic expression to become a powerful instrument of cultural diplomacy. As universal design canons give way to emerging polycentrism, creative projects and fashion collections now transmit not only their creators' personal visions but also the collective identities and values of entire communities and regions. Fashion weeks are evolving into strategic platforms for diplomatic dialogue, with participants serving as cultural ambassadors who carry profound meanings and visions of our shared future. Within BRICS+ nations, creative industries–particularly fashion–increasingly drive economic development while demonstrating global shifts.
"Our foundation organizes Fashion Weeks. We are trying to do what no one else has done before. Each time, we ask ourselves three questions: what values are we promoting, what solution do we offer for the industry, and what is the result of what we do. Currently, we unite more than 60 countries, work with different government structures, and have diverse audiences. At the same time, there is one common goal – each of our fashion weeks is held with respect for cultural diversity. Fashion cannot be confined to large retail brands alone. We prioritize celebrating the richness of all cultures and articulating their authenticity through fashion. We also champion fashion democratization. Nearly 90% of the global population wears modest clothing, which is why we're known as Modest Fashion Week. We believe fashion should be universally accessible and strive to catalyze this transformation," explained
Ozlem Sahin Ertas,
Founder and CEO of Think Fashion Global (
Turkey).
"Fashion has emerged as diplomacy's new language. No other industry can match fashion's capacity to intensely export regional culture — we must leverage this extraordinary power. Today's designers are authentic diplomatic ambassadors. For me, this isn't metaphorical but the daily essence of my work. Through visual narratives, we communicate our authenticity and cultural diversity, introducing the world to unfamiliar aesthetics — specifically, Dagestan's rich heritage. We frequently blend Dagestani imagery with other cultural elements, including Russian influences. Fashion serves as a universal non-verbal communication language we must embrace. I firmly believe that even amid complex political circumstances, culture must never be diminished. Instead, we must construct bridges that unite us across all divides," said
Zainab Saidulaeva, Creative Director of Measure.Participants in the session included
Ivetta Makarova, CEO and Founder of WOSK1147 (
Russia);
Shirene Rifai, CEO of Jordan Fashion Week (
Jordan);
Svetlana Rodina, Owner and Designer of Loom by Rodina (
Russia);
Zainab Saidulaeva, Creative Director of Measure (
Russia);
Ozlem Sahin Ertas, Founder and CEO of Think Fashion Global (
Turkey). The session was moderated by
Tatiana Naumova, Project Leader at NTV (
Russia).