Highlights from the First Day of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit

The international BRICS+ Fashion Summit commenced in Moscow on October 3, running through October 5. The opening day featured a robust Business program attended by heads of fashion associations from diverse countries, including Guatemala, Egypt, China, and South Africa.
04.10.2024
1. Plenary Session - Fashion as cultural diplomacy. Global prospects for designer brands

The plenary session highlighted the significant potential for collaboration among countries, noting that Russian designers stand to benefit greatly from access to international markets, and vice versa.

Speakers engaged in discussions about how local designers can find their unique identities while still appealing to the global market. A key point of discussion was the challenge of maintaining brand uniqueness when entering mass markets. The topics of sustainability and environmental responsibility were also emphasized, with consensus on the importance of cultivating local brands that cater to domestic consumers. Participants recognized the need for socio-cultural exchange and explored how various industries across countries could collaborate and support one another.

Stephen Manzini, founder and CEO of Soweto Fashion Week, remarked, “The potential for cooperation between Russia and South Africa is tremendous; we can discover many common interests. It’s crucial to establish a lasting presence in each other’s countries—this could take the form of a fashion exhibition or a multi-brand store. This would allow consumers to explore new brands, try on different styles, and engage with them directly. We want Russians to open stores in South Africa to promote their products in our market, while we will pursue similar opportunities in Russia.”

Irina Osyanina, Managing Director of Russian company O’STIN, expressed her thoughts on scaling uniqueness: “To be frank, uniqueness cannot be easily scaled. For instance, references to Russian fairy tales in Alena Akhmadullina's work remain niche, just as SHU's focus on high-tech outerwear does. When you concentrate on a specific product group, building a large-scale business becomes incredibly challenging. It’s nearly impossible to establish multiple stores if you only cater to a narrow audience. To expand, you must appeal to a broader customer base, which often leads you to seek uniqueness in other aspects. For example, O’STIN has found its niche as a 'regional style expert.”

Designer Julia Dalakian, founder of the Julia Dalakian Fashion House, shared her journey: “My experience at Roberto Cavalli was invaluable, as I mastered the entire process of design, sketching, and sewing. This understanding allowed me to effectively collaborate with Italian craftsmen, as we shared a universal language of fashion. In 1990, after graduating from the institute, my team and I debuted an avant-garde, constructivist collection at Milan Fashion Week, receiving an award. Our presentation was devoid of popular motifs or clichés; instead, we communicated the essence of Russian constructivism from the 1920s, which resonated well with the international audience.”

The plenary session included key figures such as Cem Altan, President of the International Apparel Federation; Stephen Manzini, founder of Soweto Fashion Week; Irina Osyanina, Managing Director of O’STIN; Julia Dalakian, designer at the Julia Dalakian Fashion House; Alexei Aksyonov, CEO of LCLS; and Mahlet Teklemariam, founder of Hub of Africa Fashion Week. The session was skillfully moderated by Sergey Krasnov, host of RBC TV.

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2. Global runway. Fashion weeks on all continents
Grand Hall

The first session of the day, titled Global runway. Fashion weeks on all continents, underscored the growing role of the fashion industry as a platform for cultural exchange and global collaboration. Participants from Asia, Africa, the Middle East, and Latin America gathered to discuss strategies for supporting local brands, fostering innovation, and promoting sustainable development. A key takeaway from the session was the idea that fashion should not only be visually appealing but also responsible.
Yang Jian, Executive Chairman of the China Fashion Association and Chairman of the China Fashion Week Organizing Committee, stated, “At our Fashion Week, we showcase how to integrate eco-friendly materials with cutting-edge technologies. Ongoing innovation is a crucial trend.” He emphasized the increasing role of influencers in the fashion landscape, noting that “sales methods have matured, and now designers are looking to influencers to highlight the strengths of their brands.”

Hayden Ng, Founder of the ASEAN Fashion Designers Showcase (AFDS) and ASEAN International Fashion Week (AIFW), discussed the current trends in modern Asian fashion, which aims to lead in global fashion. Key trends at Asian Fashion Weeks include eco-friendliness, the use of traditional textiles, and a bold color palette. These styles blend tradition with modernity, positioning them among the foremost global fashion trends.

The participants also focused on innovative methods for promoting fashion within both global and local markets. Online fashion shows and sales have become vital components of the industry, particularly as digitalization accelerates. This shift creates new opportunities for brands and designers to reach broader audiences and adapt to evolving consumer preferences. Incorporating traditional elements into contemporary collections serves to preserve cultural heritage while integrating it into the global fashion narrative.

Notable session participants included Yang Jian, Executive Chairman of the China Fashion Association and Chairman of the China Fashion Week Organizing Committee, Susan Sabet, Board Member and Secretary General of the Egyptian Fashion & Design Council; Stephen Manzini, Founder and CEO of Soweto Fashion Week; Hayden Ng, Founder of the ASEAN Fashion Designers Showcase (AFDS) and ASEAN International Fashion Week (AIFW); Fernando Yax, Associate Director and Deputy Director of Guatemala Fashion Week; and Mohamad El Saghir, CEO of Wild Sky Group. The session was moderated by Daria Khalfina, Editor-in-Chief of Independent Media.

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3. Textile revolution. Innovative fabrics on the verge of reality
Grand Hall

This session focused on the rapid advancements in textile technologies and their implications for mass production in the fashion industry. Speakers explored how these technologies enhance human comfort, contribute to a more sustainable fashion environment, and even evoke new emotional responses. At the same time, traditional weaving and embellishing techniques remain relevant, enriching the innovative landscape of modern fashion and making it more diverse and multi-dimensional.

Anna Bikchurova, a clothing materials expert and lecturer at the Fashion Factory School, noted, “Currently, there are two main directions in textile development. The first focuses on enhancing human comfort. For example, there are knitwear options that incorporate aroma-filled microcapsules within the thread. When someone wearing such a T-shirt exercises, their body heat activates the microcapsules, replacing the scent of sweat with a pleasant aroma. Another exciting development involves knitwear that reveals prints or messages when the wearer sweats, creating a playful, interactive experience.”

The session featured a lineup of experts including Takhir Ibragimov, Director of Tajikistan Fashion Week; Kirill Chizhov, CEO and Co-founder of COPPLIFE; Cem Altan, President of the International Apparel Federation; Rita Chishti, author and entrepreneur; and Anna Zhuchenko, Senior Manager of the Production Department at Finn Flare. Maria Shevchenko, Owner of 3D COUTURE, served as the moderator for this engaging session.

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4. Fashion around the world. Decoding the culture code
Grand Hall

In an era where local brands are increasingly drawing inspiration from their ethnic roots, the fashion industry is becoming a vibrant canvas for unique designs that celebrate cultural diversity. These elements not only infuse originality into fashion but also serve as powerful marketing tools that broaden our understanding of culture. A key focus of this session was the role designers and the fashion industry play in preserving and promoting cultural codes.

Zarina Vataeva, art director and fashion designer-artist at SofiRaR, shared her insights: “Architecture, music, words, and legends—the essence of culture has been revived since the very dawn of human existence, embodying sacred information. As contemporary carriers of both Russian and international fashion, we have the opportunity to transform this heritage into a modern language, allowing people to express it through color, texture, and form.”

The discussion featured a diverse panel of experts, including Randy Madray, leading designer from Guyana and CEO of the Randy Madray brand; Nadezhda Abzaeva, art critic and founder of the Abzaeva brand; Natabou Ahounou Marie- Josée, founder of Missnat Bénin and Benin Fashion Week; Alejandro Medrano, CEO of Fashion Week Honduras; and Carola Tery, CEO and President of Seychelles Fashion Week. The session was moderated by Victoria Dzhanibekyan, Head of the Department of Costume Art and Fashion at Kosygin Russian State University.

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5. Fashion metaverse. From videogames to world’s runways
Grand Hall

During this session, experts discussed how video games are emerging as a new platform for fashion brands, enabling them to reach and engage a younger audience while allowing players to showcase their individuality in virtual environments. The fashion metaverse is projected to grow by over $12.6 billion by 2028, driven by the increasing embrace of virtual spaces by fashion brands, a rising consumer demand for personalized shopping experiences, and the growing interest in virtual assets like NFTs. The intersection of online gaming and brands such as Balenciaga sparked considerable interest.

Yevgenia Plotnikova, media producer and founder of the NFT CONF ed-community, emphasized, “Today, the metaverse serves primarily as a marketing tool, capable of reaching new target audiences and sustaining engagement for years to come. It offers an opportunity to breathe new life into a brand, going beyond mere digitalization.”

Panelists included Yevgeniya Plotnikova, Aleksei Kuchma, head of the creative innovation agency Opal Agency; Anna Rymareva, a WEB3 marketing consultant; and Anna Dreinberg, founder and CEO of Tomorrow's Render Team. The session was moderated by Aleksei Kalenchuk, Head of Digital Creative Industries at the Skolkovo Foundation.

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6. Get Ready with Me
Grand Hall

The session focused on the popular Get Ready with Me format, hosted by Elena Krygina, CEO of Krygina Cosmetics, renowned makeup artist, popular blogger, entrepreneur, and creator of the KRYGINA cosmetics brand, alongside Aleksey Suharev, a fashion expert, historian, and author of the YouTube channel "Fashion Podcast." They shared valuable insights and guidelines on how to dress appropriately for various themed events while adhering to dress codes and color schemes.

Aleksey highlighted the significance of maintaining individuality in one's style: “In today’s world, fashion should not only reflect current trends but also represent personal style that showcases uniqueness. It’s vital to find a balance between following trends and preserving one’s individuality.”

At the conclusion of the session, Elena Krygina reflected on the concept of youth in fashion: “People are resistant to aging; even those over 45 strive to feel young, and this is increasingly evident in fashion and personal style.”

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7. Retail transformation. From a clothing store to a cultural space
Chamber Hall

During this session, speakers discussed the evolving landscape of retail. As consumers turn to online shopping for convenience and speed, the challenge lies in attracting them back to physical stores. Today’s retailers must provide more than just a shopping experience—they need to create a new emotional and physical experience. Stores are transforming into vibrant spaces featuring impressive interiors, art exhibitions, and opportunities for like-minded individuals to connect. The discussion also touched on the importance of building a community around the brand's values and the collaborations that help expand its reach.

Alsu Kuznetsova, director of the clothing brand  №6 BY ALSY M, remarked, “We are living in the era of the experience economy, so it’s crucial to forge an emotional connection between consumers and sellers. This can be achieved through various methods. The immersive experience, which has its roots in the arts, is becoming increasingly relevant in retail. For example, when launching a cruise collection, we aim to ‘transport’ the customer to an ocean shore using VR glasses.”

The session featured attendees including Svetlana Rodina, founder and designer of the Loom by Rodina brand; Oksana Khalina, executive director of the FASHION REBELS concept store; and Alsu Kuznetsova. The session was moderated by Anton Kochurkin, founder of the 8 lines project group.

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8. Story of a fashion house. The rise of a big brand
Chamber Hall

Victoria Andreyanova, CEO of the Victoria Andreyanova Fashion House, together with session moderator Yurate Gurauskaite, editor-in-chief of U Magazine, delved into the history of the VICTORIA ANDREYANOVA fashion house, founded in 1992. The brand stands as a symbol of the Russian fashion industry, celebrated for its impeccable fabric quality, precision in tailoring, and freedom of expression.

The evolution of the brand over the past 32 years serves as a fascinating narrative reflecting the societal changes, fashion developments, and personal perspectives of its creator. The early 1990s marked a time of significant transformation and new opportunities, allowing creative individuals to experiment and discover their unique voices in the fashion world. Throughout its history, the company has undergone numerous changes, adapting to shifting circumstances and experimenting with various business models.

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9. Educational quest. Learning in sync with the rhythm of the fashion industry
Chamber Hall

This session focused on the crucial topic of training specialists adept at mastering new technologies and knowledge that promote sustainability in fashion while balancing innovation and responsibility. Experts from various countries discussed the unique characteristics of fashion education, emphasizing the need to bridge the gap between academic learning and industry realities, and the importance of honoring traditions while embracing innovation.

Antonio Alizzi, Scientific Director of Rizzola Academy, remarked, “Studying abroad is essential. Visiting cities like Moscow and Beijing helps you understand your position in the fashion world. Education should be centered around places where your design could thrive and where you can build your brand. Furthermore, educational institutions should connect designers with financial stakeholders, as entrepreneurship is a vital driving force in this ecosystem.”

Anzor Kankulov, Head of the Fashion Department at HSE Art and Design School, added, “We live in a world where design serves as an economic tool. A designer’s role is to create products. Therefore, the aim of fashion education should be innovation; we must cultivate graduates who generate new ideas and meanings in clothing. However, how can we create something genuinely new? This question is particularly pertinent in Russia today. The answer lies not in merely copying from esteemed schools in France, Italy, or Japan, but in developing our own design philosophies. That’s how we can achieve true fashion.”

The session featured participants including: Antonio Alizzi, Scientific Director of Rizzola Academy; Anzor Kankulov, Head of Fashion Department at HSE Art and Design School; Cavita Taragi, Pro Vice Chancellor at Chitkara University; Yonggang Su, Director of the Academic Affairs Office at Sichuan Fine Arts Institute; and Antonio Maurizio Grioli, Dean of Pearl Academy. It was moderated by Anna Rykova, Visual Director at O’STIN.

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10. Action Over Words: Sustainable Fashion and Local Solutions
Chamber Hall

The expert community's discussion centered on strengthening local production chains within the BRICS+ countries, promoting sustainable practices, and enhancing the role of local manufacturers and brands. How can brands meet global quality standards while also supporting local communities and minimizing their ecological impact? Fashion and ESG experts explored practical strategies for increasing sustainability in the fashion industry with a focus on corporate governance, ethical production, and innovative supply chains.

Marie-France Idikayi, founder of Congo Fashion Week, stated, “Local artisans often go unrecognized because everyone aims to appear large and powerful. However, these small-scale producers hold tremendous potential. It’s critical for them to form communities, where they can be trained and mentored to work with larger firms and engage in mass production. We must encourage them to step outside their comfort zones and actively participate in sustainable development, which will change their approach to work.”

The discussion featured panelists including: Marie-France Idikayi, founder of Congo Fashion Week; Dulce Maria Martinez de la Rosa, Creative Director of Fabrica Social; Brian James Kihindas, Director of Kenya Fashion Council/Nairobi Fashion Week; Halima Hadir, Vice President of the Tunisian Fashion Association. The session was moderated by Luciana Duarte, PhD Researcher at Amazonia Design.

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11. Essential addendum. How to create a successful footwear and accessories brand
Open Hall

This discussion explored the key elements necessary to establish a successful brand in footwear and accessories. What should brands prioritize? Is it beauty, aesthetics, and functionality, or should the focus shift to sustainability and innovation? The speakers delved into what sustainable production means within the fashion context.

Maria Terpstra, co-founder of TWO EAGLES, shared her insights: “It’s vital to have a clear understanding of your target audience. Each interaction between your brand and clients should be intentional, infused with meaningful ideas that resonate with humanity. When you do this well, clients will willingly follow your brand.”

The session featured notable participants, including: Olesya Zhuravleva, founder of Big Brooch; Maria Terpstra, CEO of TWO EAGLES; Stanislav Zimin, trend analyst; Vera Prokina, founder of PEPFER; Alexandra Gankevich, Creative Director of Duet.by.me; Kirill Chizhov, CEO and Co-founder of COPPLIFE; and Karina Diaz Vargas, CEO of Costa Rica Fashion Week.

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12. The art of futurism. How will people of the future dress
Open Hall

Artificial intelligence is making its way into nearly every facet of our lives, and the fashion industry is no exception. This session explored the interaction between fashion and AI, examining its impact on production, marketing, and product design. Attendees engaged in a thought-provoking discussion on the future of fashion and its implications.

Luciana Duarte, PhD Researcher at Amazonia Design, shared, “Many countries are in need of resources, and there is great hope for new technologies. Clothing is now being developed using innovative materials that can protect against ultraviolet radiation, insects, water, rain, and static electricity. With the increase in natural disasters, designers are also considering the design of aesthetic survival kits that can be worn as vests or special backpacks. It’s important to remember that AI is driven by human creativity and intuition.”

Anastasiya Kostyunina, CEO of WE.REFIBER, added, “When discussing materials, it’s essential to recognize our work in testing agricultural plant waste to extract suitable cellulose for artificial silk production. In the future, having environmentally friendly materials won’t just be an added marketing bonus; it will be a necessity. This is the area we need to prioritize.”

The discussion featured notable participants including Anastasia Kostyunina, Valeria Titova, an AI artist with SXEMA; Nastasya Nekrasova, a 3D fashion designer; Luciana Duarte; and Fernanda Neves, founder of Mozambique Fashion Week. The session was moderated by Daria Fokina, CEO of the FOKINA.AI artificial intelligence studio.

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13. A star is born. A designer’s challenging path
Open Hall

This session focused on the challenges and pathways to success in the fashion industry, discussing how emerging designers can establish lasting brands. Participants debated the importance of startup capital, personal courage, talent, and whether strategic calculation or mentorship from established figures is essential.

Ksenia Kudryashova, founder of the BITTE_RUHE brand, commented, “From day one, our brand has operated on our own funds. We built our brand through a unique design, creating a flagship sweatshirt that gained traction on social media and led to immediate orders. This prompted us to implement a pre-order system. I want to emphasize: you don’t necessarily need startup funds for your brand to succeed; the creation of a unique product is key.”

The discussion included contributions from Ksenia Kudryashova, Alexandra Gapanovich, designer and founder of the GAPANOVICH brand; Sergey Sysoev, designer and founder of SERGEY SYSOEV fashion house; Ksenia Knyazeva, head and designer of Ksenia Knyazeva brand; Norma Jacqueline Ebanks, CEO of Norma Ebanks Designs; and Camila Ortega, CEO of Nicaragua Diseña. The session was moderated by Natalya Mironova, Business program director at Profashion.

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14. Inclusive chic. Reflecting each and everyone
Open Hall

This session examined the critical shift from universal design to inclusivity in fashion. Key questions included: Should inclusive clothing be available in regular stores? What initiatives can governments implement to enhance accessibility? How do inclusion and sustainability intersect? And who else benefits from inclusive clothing? These queries sparked an important dialogue among participants.

Priscilla Chigariro, founder of Zimbabwe Fashion Week, expressed, “Inclusivity varies across brands and locations. It’s essential to consider the community around you and their unique challenges. For example, in Africa, we have darker skin tones—do your clothes cater to that? Are they affordable for local consumers? Moreover, do your designs accommodate a range of sizes? Addressing these elements defines true inclusivity.”

The session featured contributions from Anna Chernykh, curator of the Fashion Design program at the British Higher School of Design; Natalia Malko, head of the Inclusive Fashion Project and founder of the adaptive clothing brand BE EASY KID; Priscilla Chigariro; Veronika Levenets, head of the NGO Infinite Possibilities; Nicole Bess, founder of Noir Fashion Week; and Stanislav Varaksin, CEO of Texpolimer. The discussion was moderated by Galina Volkova, member of the BRICS Women’s Business Alliance and founder of ORTOMODA.

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The first day of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit was memorable for attendees, not only due to the engaging Business program sessions but also because of the launch of the International Exhibition "Heritage," showcasing collections from over 40 designers.

The "Heritage" exhibition is envisioned as a central feature of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit, highlighting the impact of national and cultural heritage from BRICS nations as well as emerging countries in Asia, Africa, and Latin America on contemporary clothing design. This exhibition reflects a global trend toward incorporating national codes in the fashion industry, aligning perfectly with the summit's overarching goal of establishing a new fashion system grounded in the unique cultural characteristics of talented emerging designers from around the world.

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